The bodywork and repairs are finished and it looks like the Fiat is ready for a new coat of Imron white. This will give me some time to work on the rest of the bits, so they are ready to go back on when she comes back from paint. There are limited number of test days at the local track and the one in May I need to be ready for.
|Newly made fiberglass hood with new stiffeners on the underside|
and original machined aluminum air vent grills.
The problem with the original FRP hood, was it had no structural reinforcement on the under side like sheet metal hoods do. This wasn't a factor when the car was not moving, but at speed, air pressure was bowing the hood up slightly. To add stiffness, I made a template for this reinforce structure that needed to avoid areas that might interfere with components in the engine bay. This template was used to cut 1/2" rigid polyurethane foam, then the foam piece was fiberglassed into the back side of the hood. I also had quick release hood mount pins and 2 machined aluminum grills to fit into the finished hood. Back when we first decided to make a lighter FRP hood, dad and I felt the air vents in the hood would be more successful in aluminum, since reproducing those in fiberglass was beyond my abilities at the time. I removed the vents from the original hood and carefully glassed them into the new hood.
|A Stock Fiat 128 sl coupe chassis|
|The same area of the Fiat 128 ski|
|Pedal area with the slightly lowered floor.|
The two tubes coming through the floor
tie into the control arm mounting assembly.
| Front control arm mounts in a "not stock" |
sub assembly, tied into the roll cage.
|Custom radius rod brackets, now with |
spherical bearings. (removed)
|Engine mount (on left) moved down and |
duel master cylinder mounting bracket.
Reinforced chassis member and new
shock towers, all tied into the tube frame.
|Rear suspension mounts again, |
all reinforced and raised into the car.
Opening for the ATL Fuel Cell.
After addressing the rust repair, I need to make sure that anything that requires heat, hammering or welding is done now, while the car is bare. With all these modifications, one of these areas I've need to focus on is making sure all of the threaded insets or studs are not damaged. Some I've masked, others I can run a tap into to clean up any residue. Luckily there seems to be no rust damage to any of the mountings.
The last issue I have issue, is I am taller and have bigger feet than my dad. So, I tested out my seating position one more time and have decided I need more room for my feet. The clutch pedal is pretty close to the down tube of the cage/ frame but, I can make that work. But it forces my left foot too close to the brake pedal and I don't need to get my feet tangled finding the brake. I am hesitant to start cutting pedal brackets on the original set up. Dad did this to get the pedals where they are now, and I'd like to preserve his work here. I internet search shows me Midwest Bayless to the rescue! A complete pedal box & clutch, brake pedal unit is $69.00. I've ordered one and use it to make my re-positioned pedals, keeping the original, well, original.
|Pedals still need to be moved back,|
but now my feet don't hit the box.
Now my feet have the room. Off to paint and on to suspension restoration.